In the course of the renovations in the ‘No water, no moon’ sector, I repeatedly noticed a crack and intersection line to the left of the west crack.It runs in three beautiful lengths up to the first belay of the Schafbergkante and is an ideal extension of the classic Schafbergkante. For beginners to trad climbing, it offers an ideal opportunity to practise placing friends and wedges. All additional belays are easy to attach and the placements are obvious.
Vor dem Start noch ein kleines Plädoyer: Im Westriss habe ich insgesamt 14 Zwischenhaken entfernen müssen, da die Risslinie clean was first climbed and should remain so. Unfortunately, people have disregarded this and thus devalued the route.This makes me very sad, because once again an existing route has been misused for their own ideas. What I would like to say: ‘Scheuklappenlos’ starts about 7 metres to the left of the west crack. Here you could have realised your own ideas without devaluing an old route. The climbing is really excellent and atypical for Schafberg. With the 14 intermediate bolts from the west crack, a worthwhile route could have been created here. There is still so much room for new routes in the Alps, but unfortunately the blinkers were too tight here.
The first pitch starts in the striking chimney above the west crack. A little brittle at first, but later solid rock with some stretchy chimney moves. A small pillar leads to the belay. The length is equipped with six intermediate bolts and requires no further protection, 30m 5c.
The second pitch is dominated by crack and intersection climbing. Here the fixed protection with two intermediate bolts is somewhat less, but there is excellent additional protection, 35m, 5c+.
The third pitch continues to follow the intersection via three bolts. After the three bolts, an intermediate pitch of the Schafbergkanten variation can be reached on the left. However, the original route continues up to the right in the intersection via two bolts. After a few easier metres, the final slab, well secured with two bolts, awaits the climbers up to the first belay station of the Schafbergkante with a logical toehook. In this length it is recommended to defuse the gaps with a set of friends, 45m 6a+.
In brief: 50m half ropes, 1 set of Friends 0.3-3, but you can also sink 2 sets of 0.3-4, 10 quickdraws.
The approach is the same as for the ‘No water, no moon’ sector, see SAC Alpstein guide. The chimney is easy to find. From Wildhaus approx. 45min. Descent is either by climbing down the 1st length of the Schafbergkante, abseiling (50m half ropes) via the route or the west crack or exit on the Schafbergkante.
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